By Chris Leadbeater
The little brother of loud, noisy Trinidad, Tobago
is a getaway for the more peace-seeking tourist. But with lively markets, lush
rainforest, colourful street parties and fine beaches, filling a week here is
as easy as ordering a cocktail. If you're visiting this sunny Caribbean bolthole,
you won't want to miss…
The North Coast: Stunning Untouched Beaches
If one simple image has come to represent the islands of the Caribbean it is
the palm-fringed beach, deserted but for crashing waves and a small game of
cricket. It is easy to be cynical and assume that such places no longer exist,
yet Tobago has them in abundance, not least on its north coast - an area of
raw beauty still astonishingly undeveloped. Bloody Bay gained its name in the
19th century as the site of a violent battle between British troops and pirates,
but is a gloriously tranquil location today. Parlatuvier and Castara Bays are
similarly picturesque. But the best is Englishman's Bay, a crescent of sand
so perfect you could swear you had walked into a rum advert.
The West Corner: More Beaches - and Street Parties
Tobago's western tip - a flicked foot that prods at the divide between the
Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea - tends to be Holiday HQ for most overseas
visitors. With good reason - and not merely because the majority of the hotels
are here. The seafront between Crown Point and Pigeon Point is blessed with
some of the island's most popular beaches. Store Bay is a magnet for residents
and tourists alike, and a good spot for people-watching from the tables of its
small eateries (try 'crab and dumplin's', a Tobagan favourite). Then there is
Buccoo Bay, where the weekly street party Sunday School closes every weekend
in a haze of late-night music and dancing.
The East Coast: Splendid Scenery and Delightful Diving
Tobago is a mere 26 miles long, which means that even its eastern edge is accessible
from the hotel zone at Crown Point. It is a journey worth making. The right-hand
lip of the island is a different beast to its western counterpart, more sparsely
populated and framed by rugged hilly scenery. The view across Batteaux Bay,
over to the lonely outcrops of Goat Island and Little Tobago, is a joy to behold.
Boat trips to Little Tobago - a bird sanctuary - can be booked at Speyside,
the east coast's main (indeed, only) town. As can scuba diving excursions. The
bay is an excellent spot for sub-aqua exploration, thanks to the intricate corals
and wealth of tropical fish below the surface.
Tobago Forest Reserve: Birds and Wild Beauty
Tobago's most unexpected claim to fame is probably the fact that its Forest
Reserve - a dense patch of towering trees and winding walking trails in the
centre of the island - is the oldest protected enclave of rainforest anywhere
on the planet, enjoying safeguarded status since 1764. It makes for a fascinating
alternative to a day on the beach. Kingfishers, motmots and hummingbirds flit
between the branches while land crabs (larger and feistier than their sea-dwelling
siblings) scuttle in the undergrowth and eye visitors warily. Follow the main
trail all the way to its finish (guides can be booked) and you find yourself
at Bloody Bay. Fighting with pirates is purely optional.
And you'll need somewhere to stay…
Although it doesn't offer the sort of mega-resort complexes you might find
on other Caribbean islands, Tobago has a
decent range of accommodation options. Its most famous name is probably the
four-star Blue
Haven Hotel, a stately hideaway outside Scarborough where Hollywood siren
Rita Hayworth stayed while filming on Tobago in the 50s. Coco
Reef Resort, on Store Bay (although it has its own private beach), is arguably
the flagship luxury property. Alternatively, Turtle
Beach, a little further north at Courland Bay, is a quality mid-range choice.
As is the nearby Grafton
Beach Resort at Stonehaven Bay, where there is an emphasis on families.
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Chris Leadbeater is a freelance travel journalist. He writes regularly
for the Daily Mail. His favourite destinations are Cuba, the USA and Paris.